SUM holds sixth World Zlet in Ukraine: a daily journal

The article below is presented in the form of a journal collectively written by young participants of a world gathering of SUM (Ukrainian Youth Association) members in Ukraine at the time of the country's 10th anniversary of independence. The two principal authors of the article are Nelia Lavrynenko of Kyiv and Lesya Skoryk of Dnipropetrovsk.

A worldwide zlet (gathering) marks an extraordinary event in the life of SUM, or the Ukrainian Youth Association. It is organized every few years to encourage comradeship, friendship and cooperation of SUM members from many countries and continents, through the opportunity to gather together in one locale. Zlet also aims to develop among its participants an understanding of our nation's past and present, so that we can build bridges to present-day Ukraine.

This year's World Zlet, which took place in Ukraine on August 16 through 24, held special significance as it commemorated the 10th anniversary of the declaration of Ukraine's independence, and offered a journey through the towns and cities of Lviv, Ternopil, Kalush, Yaremche, Ivano-Frankivsk, Kaniv and, finally, Kyiv.

On August 16, under a sunny sky in view of the Lviv Opera Theater, with well over 200 delegates from three continents present, the sixth SUM World Zlet was officially declared open. SUMivtsi in uniform paraded along the historic streets of this city. Leading the procession were the flags of the countries in which SUM is represented; fluttering highest of all was the blue-and-yellow flag of Ukraine.

Few of us had ever seen so many "druzi" (friends) and people of like mind together at one time and felt hundreds of hearts beat in unison. The residents of Lviv, too, felt the oneness of our spirit. Upon seeing us, most simply stood in awe. Suddenly, a voice from the crowd proclaimed: "Slava Ukraini!" (Glory to Ukraine), to which our voices responded loudly: "Heroyam Slava! (Glory to the Heroes).

The opening ceremony took place on the square near the Zankovetska Opera House. Welcoming the participants and guests were: Wira Hajdamakha, chair of SUM's World Executive; Vasyl Kuibida, the mayor of Lviv; Yaroslav Kashuba, from the head office of Lviv Oblast Ministry of Youth, Sports and Tourism; and Taras Rondzistyj, representing the Organization of Ukrainian Nationalists.

After the opening ceremony, the Zlet participants separated into groups, each led by a local SUMivets, to tour the "City of the Lion" and become familiar with its contemporary life as well as its history. We meandered through the ancient city, soaking up the ambiance of its narrow streets, along which Bohdan Khmelnytsky hurried to his studies, and steeping ourselves in the mysterious atmosphere of the Armenian Quarter, with its unique church that arose from amid nearby apartment buildings.

Lviv's history is written in its buildings. We toured the heart of Lviv, the "rynok" (market square), where on November 1, 1918, Ukrainians proclaimed the birth of the Western Ukrainian National Republic. Two of our group, Olya and Ivanka from Great Britain, asked a plethora of questions about every memorial plaque, which they approached to read and photograph, and basked in what they saw. You can't absorb all of Lviv in just one visit, but you can fall in love with it.

The Canadian contingent (the largest in number at the Zlet) had been troubled, because "their own" Ukrainian Customs had impounded the instruments and uniforms of the Montreal's outstanding Trembita orchestra, which had arrived in Ukraine in full force. With fallen spirits and hurt by the incident, some spoke with resentment about the bureaucratic red tape. However, at our evening gathering, we were informed that the next day's concert would indeed take place.

Reassured, the Canadians (and the rest of us) spent the rest of the evening enjoying the children's vocal ensemble Namysto, which enchanted us with their celestial voices. Their finale told the story of cranes on the wing, reminding us SUMivtsi that we, too, had flocked together, flying in from around the world to the land of our forefathers. Hence, our SUM travelogue (the need for which was determined from experience with previous international zlets) is called Zhuravel (The Crane). Later, at the zabava, we danced with great enthusiasm to the Lviv band Mertvyi Piven (Dead Rooster).

August 17, Day 2 of the SUM World Zlet, began very early for the SUMivtsi, because liturgy started at 9 a.m. at St. George Cathedral, the seat of the Ukrainian Greek-Catholic Church. Buses decorated with Zlet emblems drove us to the cathedral, which greeted us with scaffolding and its half-renovated exterior, but with a solemn and golden interior. The head of the Ukrainian Greek-Catholic Church, Cardinal Lubomyr Husar, presided over the divine liturgy. The patriarch greeted the SUMivtsi warmly because he has watched over our association for a long time - 32 years ago, while a priest in the United States, he had been chaplain of SUM's summer camps in Ellenville, N.Y.

We solemnly entered the house of God in our uniforms and with our national and branch SUM flags. The voices of the choir uplifted our souls, and we were deeply touched by the homily about the broad- sword of God - a weapon made not of metal, but of moral example, stronger and heavier than steel itself. Proof of this are the lives of Patriarch Josyf Slipyj and Cardinal Myroslav Lubachivsky, to whose earthly remains we paid respect in the crypt beneath the cathedral.

Also attesting to the strength of moral example were the restored mohyly (graves) of the Ukrainian Galician Army (UHA) infantry at the Lychakiv and Yaniv cemeteries - the tombs of young soldiers who bravely defended Ukraine's independence and laid down their lives for it. Communists plundered their graves, but could not vanquish the memory of these valiant fighters.

Their memory lives on among our people and in song:

In the Yaniv cemetery,
on the grave-mounds of the riflemen,
on the plundered slabs,
lie blue-yellow ribbons.

And sprays of guelder-rose,
as if Ukraine's blood,
rise from the grave-mounds
where the Kozaks lie.

We laid flowers, red like spilled blood and white like infinity, on the graves of these heroes. The words and haunting melody of "Vichnaya Pamiat" resounded during the memorial service offered by the Zlet chaplain, Father Inokentyj.

After lunch we participated in discussions on various themes: "Ukraine - My Homeland," "SUM as a Worldwide Organization," "Ukrainian Culture Today," and "CYMnet Today and Tomorrow." The dialogue was boisterous as we discussed what interested us, as well as that which pained us.

Among the topics raised was: Which country is our "batkivschyna," and do we know that homeland? To summarize, the SUMivtsi from Europe were displeased that their SUM activities are often confined to individual branches. For the SUMivtsi from Canada, especially the teenagers, the question of "homeland" lay heavily on their minds. They apply this designation to the country of their birth and to the country of their ancestors. Nevertheless, for the older generation of SUMivtsi in the diaspora, the answer was clear: our batkivschyna is the place for which our soul yearns.

Concurrently with the discussion sessions, the heads of the SUM national executives and Bohdan Ben, head of SUM within the Lviv Oblast, met with Volodymyr Herych, vice-chairman of the Lviv Oblast Administration. They discussed youth politics, activism of community organizations, and, naturally, the Ukrainian Youth Association.

We came to dinner quite happy, because Trembita's instruments had finally arrived after their delay in Customs. Lviv residents also were soon aware of the arrival as an impromptu concert began. Passers-by thanked the young performers with loud applause.

The day came to a close as we all attended an exhibit of Hryhorii Skovoroda's "Yurodyvyi" ("The Weak-Minded"), and Oles Yanchuk's film "Neskorenyi" (Undefeated) about the life and times of Gen. Roman Shukhevych of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA). Scenes from the film in which Ukrainian soldiers from the Nachtigal battalion stood at liturgy in St. George Cathedral evoked an instant association with our morning liturgy.

Day 3 began, as was usual by now, with a morning gathering and prayer, but after breakfast we started "the great move." All Zlet participants received a dose of morning exercise as they dragged their suitcases and gear downstairs from the highest floors of their hotels. Two working elevators lacked the capacity to bring all of the passengers down. Everyone was headed for some new destination - some to Ternopil, others to Kalush. Those who frowned on a long trip had the opportunity to stay behind in Lviv.

Those remaining in Lviv subsequently walked up to the Vysokyi Zamok, where SUM members from Lviv talked about the history of this "High Castle." One of the most important historical events was the storming and capture of the castle by Maksym Kryvonis during the war of liberation in 1649-1654, an event that sealed the fate of Lviv, which fell to Hetman Bohdan Khmelnytsky.

Today, the Vysokyi Zamok consists of the remains of its fortress walls. On its highest point are a cross and a flagpole flying the Ukrainian national flag. From this vantage point one can view the whole of old Lviv.

Following dinner there was a period of free time, during which most participants walked through the historic center of Lviv. During the evening a large group of SUMivtsi went to the local soccer stadium, where the home team, Karpaty, faced Kryvbas (Kryvyi Rih).

The Karpaty team and Karpaty FC Vice-President Pavlo Pylychuk warmly greeted all Zlet participants before the match, and the SUMivtsi were seated in a special area "inhabited" by Karpaty's most fervent fans. Karpaty won the match 3-2, and the victory was followed by a salute from the team. For many Zlet participants this marked their first attendance at a top league football match. Following the match, in Pohliantsi, we were entertained by the two Lviv groups, Chornyi Veresen (Black September) and Dyvni (Strange Ones).

Another group was bound for the city of Kalush. The trip was an enjoyable one - through the windows of our bus we took in the beautiful Lviv Oblast landscapes. The first bus, filled with the younger crowd, resounded with song and laughter. The second, where the somewhat older SUMivtsi sat, abounded with stories of experiences lived long ago in Lviv.

At last we spotted Kalush on the horizon. We stayed there through the morning, and in the afternoon moved on to the village of Staryi Uhryniv, birthplace of Stepan Bandera, leader of the Organization of Ukrainian Nationalists (OUN). We visited the museum and placed flowers near the monument to Bandera.

Upon returning to Kalush we met up with local SUMivtsi and mayor Stepan Riznyk, who greeted us with traditional Ukrainian hospitality and warmth, and presented our national leaders with gifts as a remembrance.

After attending a thoroughly enjoyable concert of traditional song and dance, we visited a memorial to "The Great Bard," Taras Shevchenko, presented a floral tribute and sang his "Zapovit" (Testament).

After dinner we were treated to a lively party - the merriment and dancing seemed endless. We were also presented with a huge cake masterfully decorated with the Zlet emblem and the words "VI SUM World Zlet." The evening culminated with a bonfire.

On the morning of August 19, the feast of the Transfiguration, our entire group headed out to the Church of Archangel Michael, where we blessed apples, pears and plums after liturgy. The Kalush parish pastor was quite generous - we departed the church well doused with holy water to our next destination, the opening ceremonies of the 10th Halych Sports Games.

It is said that time flies swiftly in pleasant company. Thus it was for us. Before we knew it, it was time to part company with the local SUMivtsi of Kalush. The next stop on the day's itinerary was Yaremche. We traveled by bus, sang many a song and reaffirmed our impressions of the great wealth that Ukrainian culture offers. What other nation could sing for 12 hours without repeating a single song?

The Carpathian Mountains were alluring and enchanting. In Yamin, a village near Yaremche, we reunited with the SUMivtsi who had opted for Ternopil and Lviv. Our entire army was spread out and assigned quarters at bed-and-breakfasts with local families. We met later for a traditional SUM bonfire. What struck many of us was that we'd never seen such a full and delightful program at a "vatra" as we did that night. SUMivtsi from every country, from every locale, wanted to contribute and outdo each other. We sat fascinated and were sorry when it came to an end.

The morning of Day 6 was a beautifully sunny one, and here we were, pulling into the capital of Ukraine, Kyiv. The participants of the World Zlet - 230 strong and with baggage enough for an army - managed to transport themselves and their belongings from train to bus in under 30 minutes. Foremost in our minds was the fact that, at last, we would have a few days in one spot without having to haul our luggage around with us.

The first half of the day offered a chance to relax and get settled in - to cleanse our bodies and take stock of our surroundings for the next four days. After lunch we took part in an excursion to the Museum of National Architecture and Traditions. Remarkably, at a single site one could see elements.of regional architecture from various parts of Ukraine. All this without having to travel by rail or by road.

Fatigued by the hot weather and long journey behind us, we returned to the hotel. But another activity awaited us - we were to attend a soccer match between Kyiv's Dynamo and Romania.

It was difficult to miss our large party in the stadium. Carrying blue-yellow Ukrainian flags, shouting "Dynamo! Dynamo!" and doing the wave, we earned the attention of the Dynamo Fan Club, and of the local militia. The former thanked us for supporting their local team, while the latter carefully noted the development of our large group's boisterous actions.

The game finished with a 1-1 tie and we returned to our hotel full of excitement and hoarse. Another stimulating day was behind us. And another was before us, no doubt one that would prove no less exciting.

On Day 7 we boarded our buses organized according to our previous "western Ukrainian" designations - Kalush, Lviv and Ternopil - and headed off to the lands of Cherkasy. The heartland of Ukraine awaited us - Kaniv, where Shevchenko, Ukraine's greatest poet, lies buried.

The trip seemed to go very quickly. Soon we found ourselves marching three abreast, a company of women, followed by men, flowers in the arms of most. Leading the company were the Zlet leaders and our chaplain, Father Inokentyj. In place at the top of the hill, our orchestra Trembita stood expecting us.

Zlet Komendant Markian Shwec, a member of the orchestra, stepped ahead of the company and spoke to the gathered community, encouraging them to take heed of the example of the Great Bard's life. He invited the president of the Ukrainian Canadian Congress and former head of SUM's World Executive, Evhen Czolij, to speak a few words to those gathered. Mr. Czolij reflected on three anniversaries being commemorated this year: 15 years since the nuclear disaster at Chornobyl, 10 years of Ukrainian independence, and the fifth anniversary of Ukraine's Constitution. He spoke also of the importance of Ukrainian youth, and of educating and nurturing them in a patriotic spirit, and invited our youth to actively participate in national life.

Trembita played its rendition of "Reve ta Stohne." Later we shared a prayer at the gravesite and sang "Vichnaya Pamiat" for Shevchenko. It seemed that nature itself joined us in our mood. The sky darkened, the wind rose, the Dnipro River became angry with white foam; it seemed that all of Ukraine paused for that solemn moment with us SUMivtsi. Some found it difficult to stop their tears; as if in sympathy, the clouds nearby opened and sent their own drops down among us.

Visiting the museum at Kaniv, we wandered from room to room, traced the life story of Shevchenko, saw his paintings and belongings, and listened to the explanations of our tour guide. On the first floor we learned about the grave of the famous poet. We saw his death mask, which provided a glimpse of Shevchenko's facial features, images of his burial, the kerchiefs of the women and girls in those pictures, the telegrams bearing messages of sympathy on the morning of Shevchenko's passing, March 10. In unison, we sang the "Zapovit."

Back in Kyiv a musical evening awaited us with the ensemble Dnipro. It was a delightful and completely new experience. We heard a composition called "Those, Who Are of the Sun," a work composed of classical melodies from various regions of Ukraine, and encompassing the cycle of a year, which was followed by the Arkan, the traditional men's dance, the director explained to us. You had to see it and hear it yourself - mere words cannot describe the experience. In this performance we saw and heard so much of the traditional and ancient, the unfamiliar and at the same time familiar and close to the heart. Both the music and the costumes were superb.

We met that day with a number of Ukrainians from the diaspora who have worked for the Ukrainian cause; some of them now reside in Ukraine. Among them were Askold Lozynskyj, the Stojkos and Mr. Czolij.

Day 8 featured the second round of our discussion sessions. We met in the same groups as before in western Ukraine, and worked on similar themes. After lunch the Zlet participants enjoyed the sites of Kyiv, led masterfully by SUM tour guides from the Kyiv branch. At the same time, a delegation traveled to the Baikove Cemetery and to Askold's Tomb, where flowers were laid in commemoration of those who fought for Ukraine's freedom.

Kyiv greeted its sons and daughters with all its history, greatness and beauty. The Golden Gates, the sobors of St. Sophia and Mykhailivskyi Zolotoverkhyi, Andriivskyi Uzviz, Podil, the Monastery of the Caves - all this beauty we beheld with our own eyes.

We returned to the hotel happy and filled with newly acquired information. It's impossible to see all of Kyiv in a single day, or two, or three... or for that matter all of Ukraine in just over a week - you need years.

In the evening we enjoyed music, song, laughter, and each other's company. Each country's delegation spoke about SUM on its territory and officially greeted the participants of the World Zlet. In addition to messages from SUM from other points abroad, we also received greetings from youth organizations in Poland, and from the head of SUM in France, Ivan Pasternak.

Then began the zabava. A band beloved by Ukraine's youth, Mandry, gained even more popularity that night among those present from America, Canada, Great Britain and Australia. From the first beat of music to the last dance of the evening, everyone was on their feet and singing along with the band. The zabava was followed by more song lasting into the wee hours, into the final morning of this World Zlet.

All things must come to an end, and so it was with our World Zlet. The last day arrived. Nobody wanted to think about it as all around us there was an atmosphere of celebration, because today was August 24, the 10th Anniversary of Ukraine's independence!

On this last full day of Zlet we saw that the SUMivtsi were truly tried and truly "zahartovani." After a night of fun, we had to awaken at 6 a.m. However, the participants of this Zlet were awake, enthusiastic and alive. We settled into our seats aboard buses bound for the Khreschatyk, Kyiv's main boulevard. There we watched Ukraine's armed forces march in the Independence Day Parade. Ukrainian servicemen and massive military vehicles passed before us, and aircraft flew overhead. Behind the armed forces marched Ukraine's best performing groups and sports teams.

For the second half of the day we moved to Shevchenko Park, where we took part in the official closing ceremonies of the sixth World Zlet. During this ceremony we were addressed by Andreas Hajdamacha, head of the Organization of Ukrainian Nationalists; Oleksander Kulyk, head of Kyiv's Family and Youth Ministry; Mr. Lozynskyj, president of the Ukrainian World Congress; and Mr. Czolij, president of the Ukrainian Canadian Congress. Our final ceremonial act was singing the traditional "Nich Vzhe Ide" and bidding farewell to friends and colleagues.

The Zlet was officially over, but celebrations of Ukraine's independence continued. At Independence Square a great concert of popular Ukrainian music took place, to be followed by a fireworks display.

Our greetings to the Ukrainian people on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of Ukraine's independence.

Copyright © The Ukrainian Weekly, September 16, 2001, No. 37, Vol. LXIX

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