Museum of Folk Architecture and Traditions offers glimpse of Ukraine's regions (05/05/02)

A Ukrainian Summer: where to go, what to do...

Museum of Folk Architecture and Traditions offers glimpse of Ukraine's regions

by Roman Woronowycz
Kyiv Press Bureau

KYIV- Located under the sun on 150 hectares of rolling hills, the Museum of Folk Architecture and Traditions is a remarkable glimpse into 18-19th century village life in Ukraine, and a must-see for travelers to Kyiv.

Located just outside the country's capital near the town of Pyrohova, the museum consists of a collection of old homes and buildings from various regions of Ukraine, which were chosen by ethnographers and historians for their relevance. The buildings were disassembled and transported to Pyrohova during the museum's development phase between 1969 and 1976, where they were rebuilt and restored into a series of remarkable homesteads and villages that reflect life as it was in the six geographic regions of the country a hundred years ago and more.

Beyond the fact that the museum allows visitors to actually pass into a bygone era by giving them an intimate view of the environment in which people went about their very often difficult daily lives, it offers a unique overall design in which each region is found on terrain that reflects the physical landscape that dominates there. Also, the entire museum is laid out so that in a general sense, each region is placed to reflect where it would be found on a map of Ukraine.

In that way, one moves into the Karpaty (Carpathian Mountains) region, which is located on the highest hill of the museum, from the Podillia region of western Ukraine. Polissia is found above Central Naddniprianschyna, which in turn is located above the south Ukraine region. Slobozhanschyna-Poltavschyna, in turn, is at the opposite end from the Karpaty.

A visitor can compare the architectural differences between homes in the various regions and see how design developments occurred. He will notice that windows became larger as time passed and come to understand that the severe angle of roofs in Zakarpattia homes was a practical innovation to allow for water to run down and off the building quickly in a region that sees plenty of rain.

The designers did not forget Ukrainian windmills, which were an important element in many regions. At Pyrohova they have been placed amid wide-open spaces, which gives them an awe-inspiring presence. There is a water mill on the grounds as well, not one of the larger ones that were built during those times, but it gives a good sense to what extent the miller, who resided where the grain was processed, was tied to his mill and his job.

Also of particular interest are the various farm implements and household tools that have been gathered and are on display here. A stationary thresher from the late 19th century, found in the Luhansk region, gives a good indication of the extent to which the Ukrainian countryside remained technologically underdeveloped in relation to Europe and America.

The museum contains a remarkable Kozak church from the Cherkasy region of Ukraine, transported here with much of the originally iconography still intact. There is also a schoolroom from the late 19th century complete with benches, a blackboard and even a globe from that period. There are also highly unusual beehives made by apiarists from tree stumps. In the Polissia region, 19th century beekeepers lifted the stumps onto trees, and it was considered that the higher the hive was placed the more honey the bees would produce.

The various buildings house domestic icons, national folk costumes and textiles, ceramics, as well as one of the better collections of Ukrainian folk instruments in the world.

In all 70,000 artifacts are found in the 320 buildings that make up the Pyrohova site, considered one of the largest open-air museums in the world.

The various villages are connected by dirt roads and beautiful meadows of wildflowers. But, in keeping with the intent of the designers to reflect the reality of the times, some fields are planted annually with wheat, sunflowers and other staple crops of Ukraine.

During national and religious holidays and on specially designated dates, such as the well-known ancient celebration of the summer solstice, Kupalo, artisans exhibit their wares, workers dressed in costumes stroll the grounds and special events take place that reflect Ukrainian traditions. For instance, during Kupalo an evening show centered on a huge bonfire takes place, while during Christmas visitors can enjoy sleigh rides and live "vertepy," which is a specialized tradition of caroling accompanied by a bit of theater.

Summer visitors to the museum can bring along picnic baskets and after a few hours of viewing settle into one of the meadows of tall grass for lunch before proceeding further. Or they can take in a hayride, or simply sit on a wooden bench outside a Volyn home, for example, and take in the fresh air, if lunch is not on their mind.

There are also several top-notch restaurants on the grounds that offer traditional Ukrainian fare in a rustic setting.

With all that the Pyrohova open-air folk museum has to offer, more is on the way. Plans have been drawn up for more exhibitions, which will expand it by a third and bring the total number of buildings to more than 500.

For those interested in learning more about the museum, the telephone number is: (38044) 266-2416 or (38044) 266-5542.

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