May 4, 2018

TRAVEL: Cruising the Caribbean for ‘Panamalanka’

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Nadia Nynka

Two ships approach the Gatun Locks located on the Atlantic side of the Panama Canal.

Eighty-eight Ukrainian Americans, or those who identify with the Ukrainian American community, left Fort Lauderdale, Fla., on January 17 on the Holland America cruise ship Zuiderdam, and headed for 10 days of relaxation and exploration in the Caribbean on the “Panamalanka” tour organized by Zenia Brozyna, owner of Zenia’s Travel Club LLC. 

The itinerary included stops in the Bahamas, Aruba, Curacao, the Panama Canal and Costa Rica. The first stop was a private island in the Bahamas, where some ventured into the turquoise waters, others explored the island on foot or minibus, and some decided to explore the beach on horseback. All enjoyed a barbecue lunch on the beach.

Zenia Brozyna

Keeping sharp eyes out for wildlife while cruising the Chagres River in Panama.

Our first day at sea gave us the opportunity to explore the ship, but also to meet as a group and introduce ourselves. Our Ukrainian group included people from across 15 states plus Puerto Rico and Canada. Some were new to cruising, others were returning passengers. During our Welcome Aboard Party, Ms. Brozyna presented gifts to those who were celebrating birthdays and to five couples celebrating their wedding anniversaries during the cruise.

Our second stop was Aruba. Most of us hit the beaches, known for their white sand that doesn’t burn your feet despite the hot sun. The strong and constant trade winds that blow east to west, causing the famous Divi Divi trees to bend to the west, kept the heat from being unbearable. A dip in the crystal clear waters was refreshing, a leisurely lunch on the beach under the coconut trees was relaxing, and soon it was time to return to the ship.

Zenia Brozyna

Part of the group, bidding each other good night after the Malanka dance.

As on many cruise ships, we often encounter personnel from Ukraine. They work as room stewards, servers and performers. This cruise was no exception. We discovered that two performers of the cruise ship’s dance troupe, Kateryna and Volodymyr, were from Ukraine (Mariupol and Mykolayiv). The lead singer, Tricia, was a Ukrainian American, and two violinists were from Kyiv. We invited them to our get-togethers and sing-alongs, where they enthusiastically joined in the singing.

While still docked in Aruba, we held our much-anticipated Malanka at Sea. Members of our group dressed in their best “Vyshyvanky” got together for a night of song and dance with musical accompaniment provided by one of our fellow travelers, Walter Syzonenko. Our dancers from Ukraine, lead singer and violinists all showed up. We were even treated to a short rendition of the “Kozachok,” performed by Kateryna and Volodymyr. It was a memorable evening.

Zenia Brozyna

Olena Boyko engages curious Embera tribe children during our visit to their village.

The next day we docked at the Dutch island of Curacao, known for its extensive shopping, small beaches and good diving. Many in our group toured the old town of Willemstad, the capital, and admired the beautiful pastel-colored colonial architecture. 

After saying good-bye to Curacao, we spent a day at sea sailing towards the Panama Canal. Days at sea are great for sleeping late, or for getting up early and going for a walk on the promenade. Many curled up with a good book on an open deck, attended interesting lectures on the building of the Panama Canal, got in some shipboard shopping or sunbathing, took pleasure in some exceptional entertainment or just hung out and enjoyed each other’s company on the Lido deck.

Zenia Brozyna

Judge Bohdan Futey speaks to group members during a commemoration of Ukraine’s Day of Unity.

Amongst our group’s passengers was the Very Rev. Dr. Ivan Kaszczak, the pastor of the Holy Trinity Church in Kerhonkson, N.Y. and St. John the Baptist Church in Hunter, N.Y. Father Kaszczak celebrated liturgy daily, and it was interesting to see that some of the performers from Ukraine attended his service on Sunday. 

On Monday, January 22, our group commemorated Ukraine’s “Day of Unity.” Our group listened to a commentary by one of our passengers, Judge Bohdan Futey, who spoke about the issues facing Ukraine today. Also, the Rev. Kaszczak gave a presentation about the first immigrants to the U.S. and offered a short history of the beginnings of the Ukrainian Catholic Church in the U.S. The presentations were so well received that everyone requested another opportunity to continue the discussions. Several days later, another session was set up and the discussion continued. 

Additionally, Luba Keske gave a short update on a project she is working on – a movie about Metropolitan Andrey Sheptytsky that focuses on his efforts to save Jews during the Nazi occupation of Ukraine. She pointed out the need for Ukrainians to financially support this effort so the true story of the metropolitan’s selfless and perilous work becomes known to the world. 

The following day we entered the Panama Canal at 5:30 a.m. Hardly anyone was sleeping, and the decks were crowded with people waiting to experience the passage through the locks of the Panama Canal. It took several hours to pass through the locks and onto Gatun Lake. Once the ship docked, we disembarked for a tour of the Agua Clara locks, which were built in 2016, parallel to the original locks that opened in 1914, to accommodate much bigger transport and cruise ships. 

Zenia Brozyna

Intently listening to a lecture about the inner workings of the banana plantation in Costa Rica.

After stopping for a savory lunch of local delicacies, we experienced an enchanting journey deep into the dense jungles of Panama’s Chagres River, which provided an opportunity to see Howler monkeys, iguanas, baby crocodiles, several sloths and various species of birds. This excursion also took us back in time to observe the ancient Embera Indians, a tribe indigenous to Panama, whose dances and music have hardly changed since Christopher Columbus arrived in the 1500s. The villagers explained their traditions and treated us to some local entertainment.

Overnight we sailed to Costa Rica, docking in Puerto Limon. A tour of a banana plantation introduced us to the banana world in a very realistic way. The Standard Fruit Company, which we visited, is recognized throughout the world for its leadership in the production of environmentally and socially sound production systems and educated us in the operational techniques used to export bananas worldwide. 

On the last evening on board, Ms. Brozyna arranged for a memorable farewell party. It seemed the cruise had just started, and already it was over. The cruise gave many in our group the opportunity to meet new friends, or to reconnect with those they have not seen in a while. Above all, everyone enjoyed the camaraderie of fellow Ukrainians who, regardless of where they live across the North American continent, share a common core and love for their Ukrainian heritage. We’re waiting for the next voyage!